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 Climbing
in Arches consists of very technical rock climbing which
should be done only by those trained in the sport. Most
climbs along with beta are listed in a local guidebook.
Climbing is not allowed on any arches specifically mentioned
and named on the USGS topographic map, on Balanced Rock
and several other places in the park. The visitor center
in the park can be helpful for any further needed information.
Location:
Much of the Climbing Arches National Park can be reached
by taking Highway 191 and turning off to Highway 128 from
Moab, then go north.
Climbs
in Arches:
-
Three Penguins ( The Right Chimney, The Center
Chimney)- Access this set of chimneys just of the
main road past the visitor center.
-
Park Avenue Wall (Heart of the Desert)
-
Argon Tower (North Northeast)
-
The Three Gossips (West Face, Lyon-Trautner
Route)- 1/4 mile west of the Courthouse Tower parking
area lies the 300 foot tower of the Three Gossips
which is home to three routes.
-
The Great Wall (Chinese Eyes)
-
Owl Rock, Devil Dog Spire (Industrial Disease)-
A 100-foot spire which is a well defined crack system
rated at 5.8. Access this rock from the Garden of
Eden parking lot.
-
Cuddlebunny Tower, Dark Angel (West Face)
 The
Rock:
Soft
and often unstable sandstone is the primary rock found
in the park and although harsh weather conditions have
over time weakened permanent gear as well as the rock,
making climbing in Arches quite the thrilling adventure.
Climbing in Arches started long before the park was
established and still competes for one of the best climbing
areas in the world with its majestic towers.
Climbing
regulations in the park:
In
order to keep climbing open to the public, please observe
the following regulations set aside to preserve the
rock and the park.
-
Drilling with motorized drills is not allowed.
- Climbing
is not allowed on any arches specifically mentioned
and named on the USGS topographic map, on Balanced
Rock and several other places in the park. Some
climbs in the park are closed during certain times
during the year as well. Check with the visitor
center for availability of climbing.
- Chalk
color must not conflict with natural color of rock.
- Use
designated trails and leave no trace on and off
the wall. Use webbing and other gear that will blend
with the rock.
Permits:
Unless
you plan on spending the night in the backcountry
of the park, climbing is allowed without first obtaining
a permit
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